Mum’s Diary
At Dunoon. Left 8.30 to go to Glencoe. Rained off & on all day, but most enjoyable trip – driver good & informative. Tea at Inverary. Sat behind Graham & opposite Dot, Mary & husbands. Played Scrabble for fun at night. Realised prayer of Monday for a male to talk to had been answered – but ask for someone special even though nothing can come from it – would be prepared to wait – years if necessary – if “he” is there to write to & meet sometime.
My/Roger’s Diary
Roger – Went to school this morning but it was boring so I came home. Spick came for dinner. I went to sleep for some of this afternoon. I went out into the city with some friends but is was boring so I came home. I rang up Caroline. Her party is still on although some boys have threatened to wreck it as they weren’t invited.
Diary Entries
Mum’s Scrapbook
We left Dunoon & travelled the same route to Arrochar as Monday’s trip, then we went to Tarbet & rejoined Loch Lomond where we left it on Monday. We travelled along the road by the side of the loch, passing a tree growing out of the centre of a rock, & seeing Pulpit Rock which is an immense boulder & is known by this name because religious services were once conducted from it. On the shore of Loch Lomond is a generating station where motive power is derived from water piped down to it from Loch Sloy. From Loch Lomond we climbed through Glen Falloch passing Falloch Falls & to Crianlarich.
From Crianlarich we travelled by Ben Dorain, 3524 feet, over the Bridge of Orchy & by the side of Loch Tulla & Loch Ba. Soon we saw the Three Sisters of Glencoe: Ben Fhada, Gearr Aonach & Aonach Dubh, the latter two being buttresses of Brdean-Nam-Bian (3,766ft) the highest mountain in Argyll, shown in the next picture in the centre of the group. This picture also shows the old & new roads.
On the road down into the village of Glencoe we could see a cave at the top of one of the mountains where some of the Macdonalds are supposed to have hidden from the massacre. Also on the way down to the village we passed the Falls of Coe, although no piper was there. The falls are situated beneath Bhenn Fhada, one of the three sisters. Glencoe is one of the grandest & most magnificent glens in Scotland. The glen is most impressive when viewed amid mists & storms (we did!)
We travelled down the new road to the village & then back through the village on the old road. The correct name for the village is Carnoch but it is better known as the village of Glencoe. It is situated at the foot of the famous glen & dominated by the Pap of Glencoe (2430 ft).
This part of the country belonged to the clan Macdonald & when William III was king after James II had fled many British subjects were not pleased at the change of sovereign & among them were the Highlanders. In 1691 the clans were required to take before the end of the year, the oath of allegiance to William III. All did except the clansmen in Glencoe. Their chief MacIan, held out until the last day, then realizing his folly the old man hurried to Fort William to take the oath but there was no magistrate there to receive it. So he had to go to Inverary but the mountain passes were deep with snow & he did not arrive until January 6th.
The magistrate administered the oath & notified the authorities in Edinburgh, but by their raids the Macdonalds had made many enemies, who now seized the opportunity to have vengeance. The magistrates explanation of MacIan’s delay was withheld from the King’s advisers, who were persuaded to cancel the certificate of submission & obtain the royal warrant for the extirpation of the clan. The punitive force consisted of 120 Campbells. The soldiers entered the glen under a plausible pretext & the old chief, suspecting nothin, treated them with Highland hospitality. For 12 days they were entertained by the Macdonalds & on the very night of the fell deed the commander was playing with the chieftain’s sons.
At 5 o’clock on the morning of February 13 the massacre began. Old & young men, women and children were indiscriminately slain & nearly all who escaped the bullet or the sword were frozen to death among the precipices to which they fled. The old chief was one of those who was shot. When the butchery was over the deserted huts were fired & the executioners departed, driving before them the flocks & herds & Highland ponies that had belonged to the clan. The glen is known as the Glen of Weeping.
We then returned along the same road to Clifton where we turned along through Glen Lochy. This is called some, the “wearisome glen”. Ben Cruachan can be seen clearly & is one of the highest mountains in Argyllshire. It has two crests, the eastern (Cruachan Beann) is 3689 ft & the western (Stab Deary) 3,611 ft. The connecting ridge is about three-quarters of a mile long & 3,400 ft above sea-level. However before reaching the foot of Ben Cruachan we went through Dalmally & by Loch Awe. Loch Awe is a fresh water loch, is 23 miles in length, its maximum depth is 307 ft & its breadth does not exceed ¾ mile (see also p37).
On a peninsula at the foot of the loch is the ruin of Kilchurn (pronounced Kil-hoorn) Castle. The oldest portion is the tower, built in 1440 by Sir Colin Campbell. He soon left for a crusade in the Holy Land. After 7 years his lady had heard nothing from him & a report was received that he was slain in battle. His “widow” in due time accepted another suitor, MacCorquodale. The wedding day was fixed, but on its morning the missing lord entered the castle in disguise. Amid the festivities preceding the celebration of the nuptials he disclosed himself to the great delight of his lady & his followers.
The castle was enlarged in 1693 & continued to be a residence of the family until 1740. It owes its ruinous condition to an economical steward who took out the roof timber for use in the castle that was being built at Balloch or at Taymouth. The ruin shows a square tower surrounded by high walls, with battlements & round towers at the angles. There is a story, told to us by the coach driver, of a lady who made her home in the castle & used to row across to sell her wares (I can’t remember what they were” & she bought cases of whisky which she drank but one night she drowned on her return journey.
We left Loch Awe & travelled down through Glen Aray. While going through this glen the coach driver pointed out a granite cairn which had been erected in memory to Neil Munro. The Duke of Argyll refused to allow this cairn to be erected in Inverary so this place was chosen as a place would see it on rising every morning. And so to Inverary. Inverary was originally a burgh of barony, under the Argyll family but became a royal burgh early in the 17th century. The town was rebuilt in 1745 by the then Duke of Argyll for then it was composed of wretched hovels.
It now consists almost entirely of frontage & the population is hardly more than 500. With its background of green wooded hills & in front the clear waters of the loch, Inverary has a very attractive appearance. The large gateway beside the hotel guards a fine avenue more than a mile long & through this gateway is All Saints Episcopal Church, visited for its bells, hung in a lofty square tower. Inveraray castle rebuilt in 1745 by the Duke of Argyll to designs by Morris & Mylne. It was originally built in the 14th century.
Leaving Inveraray we drove round the top of Loch Fyne over this bridge. Loch Fyne is the longest sea loch (42 miles) & here the Royal Navy test submarines.
Originally, these 12 pages of notes were supported by 14 postcards but two have been lost over time. The first postcard is labelled Ben More Restaurant in Crianlarich where we had coffee (in the rain!) The second postcard is missing but is labelled Bridge of Orchy. This graceful old bridge was built about 1742 by General Wade during his campaign to quell the Highland disturbances. The view looks south to “Glen Orchy’s Proud Mountains”. The third postcard is labelled The Three Sisters of Glencoe: Faith, Hope and Charity. The fourth postcard is missing but was said to show two of the three sisters: Beinn Fhadja & Biden-nam-Bian. Mum did not label the fifth postcard but it shows a piper at the Falls of Coe. Similarly, mum did not label the sixth postcard but it shows the Glencoe village of Carnoch. The seventh postcard is labelled The Bridge of Coe, Glencoe.
The eighth postcard is a multiview card of Glen Coe showing Stob Coire & Lochan, the three sisters from the River Coe, Loch Laven & the Pap of Glencoe and Aonach Eagach from the River Coe. The ninth postcard is described as follows. On a peninsula at the foot of the loch is the ruin of Kilchurn (pronounced Kil-hoorn) Castle. Mum did not label the tenth postcard but it shows Inverary and Loch Fyne. The eleventh and twelfth postcards are of Inveraray Castle and the thirteenth and fourteenth are of Loch Fyne.
Notes
Dunoon
Mum and my two siblings Alan (A) and Liz (E for Elizabeth) were away for a two-week holiday at Dhalling Mhor, the Christian Guild place in Dunoon, see Chapter 122. On this day, mum went on a coach trip to Glencoe leaving Dhalling Mhor at 8.30 am. She considered it a most enjoyable trip with a good and informative driver. She noted that they had tea in Inverary. There was a lot more detail about the trip in her scrapbook.
A Note on the Weather
Mum noted that it rained off and on all day.
Other People on the Trip
Mum sat behind Graham. I am not sure who he was. He is mentioned twice in the diaries, on this day and two days later. She also sat opposite Dot Pond, Mary Evans and their husbands, Bill and Alf respectively. Mum met these couples in Dunoon and kept in touch.
Scrabble
Mum noted that they played Scrabble at night. She noted that it was for fun rather than as a competition, see Chapter 122.
Prayer for Male Companionship
On Monday, mum had prayed for a male to talk to and she thought this prayer had been answered although I am not sure who she was referring to. It still fell short of what she wanted which was “someone special” which I interpret as a life partner, see Chapter 114. However, she felt that nothing could come of it. I am not absolutely sure why she felt that but, at this point, she was still married to dad even though they had lived separately since 1973.
While she could have divorced and remarried, I think her Christian beliefs were some kind of block to both of those although this was not something that mum specifically articulated. She felt she would be happy with someone to write to and meet sometimes even if that went on for years. I am not sure how many men would have found that an attractive proposition! Indeed, mum remained single from this point until her death.
School
I was at school in the morning. We had started our sixth form timetable and this was running for a week before we broke up for summer, see Chapter 118. I considered it boring so came home. Presumably, we were free to attend or not, or perhaps I just skipped school anyway!
Michael Grey
“Spick” refers to my school friend Michael Grey, see Chapter 118. For some reason, he was always known by that nickname and, as far as I know, it did not have any intended negative connotations. He came for dinner, that is a midday meal.
Afternoon Nap
I noted that “I went to sleep for some of the afternoon“. I am not exactly sure why. It was particularly hot at that time so perhaps I decided on a siesta!
City with Friends
I went into the city, Norwich, with some friends, see Chapter 122. However, I thought it was boring so came home. I did not really explain why I found it boring!
Caroline Kingham
Caroline refers to Caroline Kingham. She and I had been going out for a short time. I phoned her and we discussed her party which was scheduled for the next day. It was still on despite some threats from “some boys” who had threatened to wreck it because they were not invited.
I recall Caroline and would consider her as my first “proper” girlfriend, see Chapter 122. We went out for a relatively long period by the teenage standards of that time, but it was probably less than a month all told! I confess that I was unable to recall her surname but was able to track it down as my mother and her mother later worked together. I don’t know much about what happened to her but I believe she may have married Marcus Adam Batch in June 1982.
Scrapbook Details
Mum’s scrapbook contained a lot more detail about the trip to Glencoe.
Same Route to Arrochar
Mum noted that they had taken the same route to Arrochar as they had taken on Monday. This is the route through Rest and Be Thankful which we used on our return from holiday on Cowal Peninsula.
Tarbet
Mum noted that they went to Tarbet and rejoined Loch Lomond where they had left it on Monday.
A Strange Tree
They travelled along the side of Loch Lomond and mum noted that they passed a tree growing out of the centre of a rock. Apparently, such trees were not uncommon in the area and coach drivers used to point them out to break up the journey. The precise tree mum saw was probably lost when the road was upgraded. There is a well-known and much-photographed lone tree at Milarrochy Bay on the eastern side of Loch Lomond.
Pulpit Rock
Mum noted seeing Pulpit Rock which she described as an immense boulder that was given this name because religious services were held there. For many years, it was a traffic light-controlled bottleneck for the A82. When the A82 was improved, the rock was preserved by constructing a viaduct passing out over the loch. This photo on Google Streetview shows the rock with the vestry carved into it (right) and the new A82 to the left.
Sloy Hydro-electric Scheme
Mum noted that there was a hydroelectric power station on the shore of Loch Lomond using water from Loch Sloy, that is the Sloy Hydro-electric Scheme at Inveruglas.
Crianlarich
From Loch Lomond, they then climbed through Glen Falloch passing the Falls of Falloch and reaching Crianlarich.
Ben More Restaurant
Mum’s scrapbook includes a postcard of this restaurant in Crianlarich. She noted that they stopped here for coffee in the rain! This still operates as Benmore Lodge.
Bridge of Orchy
From there, they travelled past Beinn Dorain over the Bridge of Orchy by the sides of Lochs Tulla and Ba. Mum’s scrapbook originally had a postcard at this point but this is now missing. She wrote about it saying “Bridge of Orchy. This graceful old bridge was built about 1742 by General Wade during his campaign to quell the Highland disturbances. The view looks south to “Glen Orchy’s Proud Mountains”. I believe I have identified the postcard in question and intend to replace it in the scrapbook. It appears that mum copied the inscription on the postcard into her scrapbook.
Although she attributed the bridge to General Wade and it was envisaged by him as part of a network of military roads, its construction was actually overseen by his successor Major William Caulfeild
Three Sisters of Glencoe
Mum then noted that they could then see the three sisters of Glencoe, Ben Fhada, Gearr Aonach and Aonach Dubh. These form part of the mountain Bidean nam Bian. Mum also referred to the sisters as Faith, Hope and Charity but the use of these names is controversial and disputed. In the scrapbook, there were originally two postcards but the second one is missing. I believe I have identified the postcard in question and intend to replace it in the scrapbook.
Glencoe Village
As they went into the village of Glencoe (which mum said had the “correct” name of Carnoch, in fact A’ Chàrnaich), they could see caves where some of the MacDonalds hid from the massacre, which mum describes in some detail in her scrapbook.
They travelled down the new road to the village and then back through the village on the old road. The village is situated at the foot of the famous glen and dominated by the Pap of Glencoe (Sgòrr na Cìche) which rises to 2,430 feet.
Falls of Coe
They went past the Falls of Coe also known as Glencoe Waterfall. These are situated below Ben Fhada.
Glencoe
Mum noted that Glencoe is one of the grandest and most magnificent glens in Scotland. She commented that the glen was considered to be most impressive when viewed “amid mists and storms” which she claimed they did! Mum’s scrapbook included a multiview postcard of Glencoe.
Massacre of Glencoe
Mum describes in some detail the Massacre of Glencoe which took place on 13 February 1692. While the main points of mum’s narrative are historically accurate, there are elements which may be romanticised. Following the Jacobite rising of 1689, clan leaders agreed to swear allegiance to William and Mary in exchange for a cash payment. However, it seems that the clan leaders could not agree how to share the money so there were delays in signing. While others appear to have missed the deadline, the Macdonalds were selected for vengeance because of a combination of clan politics and a reputation for lawlessness.
The story about MacIan’s journey to Fort William, not finding a magistrate and then being delayed by snow appears to be historically accurate. However, the reason he was making the journey as late as he did was because he was waiting for permission from King James to be relieved of his loyalty to him.
While mum’s details of the massacre are broadly accurate, it seems that attack was carried out by a regular unit of the official British Army. They were commanded by Robert Campbell but not all the men were Campbells. Some of them warned the Macdonalds of the planned escape meaning more escaped than mum’s narrative implies. The direct death toll was between 30 to 38 and while some died because of the winter conditions, most of the 550 members of the clan survived.
Mum noted that Glencoe was known as the Glen of Weeping implying that this related to the massacre. However, this is probably not correct and arises from a mistranslation of the Gaelic name Gleann Comhann or Comhana which relates to the name of the river flowing through Glencoe and not the Gaelic word Cumha for mourning.
Glen Lochy and Ben Cruachan
From Glencoe, they returned along the same road to Clifton but instead of turning left there to Crianlarich, they turned right through Glen Lochy which is called by some the “wearisome glen“. From there, they could see Ben Cruachan with its two crests. Mum noted that, the eastern crest (Cruachan Bheann or Beannach) stands at 3,689 feet and the western crest (Stob Dearg) stands at 3,611 feet. The connecting ridge is about three-quarters of a mile long and 3,400 feet above sea-level.
Loch Awe
However before reaching the foot of Ben Cruachan they went through Dalmally and by Loch Awe. Mum noted that Loch Awe is a fresh water loch that is 23 miles in length and has a maximum maximum depth of 307 feet. ITs breadth does not exceed ¾ mile. Her scrapbook had numbered pages and here she cross-referenced page 37 where she visited Loch Awe on another day.
Kilchurn Castle
Mum noted the ruin of Kilchurn Castle on a peninsula at the foot of the loch. She commented that it was pronounced Kil-hoon and the oldest part of the castle was built in 1440 by Sir Colin Campbell. According to mum, the castle was enlarged in 1693 and continued to be a residence of the family until 1740. The ruin has a square tower surrounded by high walls, with battlements and round towers at the angles.
Mum claimed that the castle owed its ruinous condition to an economical steward who took out the roof timber for use in the castle that was being built at Balloch (renamed as Taymouth). This is partially true and the steward in question was John Campbell. However, at this point the castle had already been badly damaged by lightning and was empty.
The Reappearing Husband
Mum told two stories about Kilchurn Castle which have the appearance of legends. The first concerns Sir Colin Campbell himself. Apparently, he went to fight in a crusade in the Holy Land and was gone for seven years with no word. Finally, his wife received a report that he was dead., “slain in battle“. So, in due time, she accepted another suitor who mum identifies as having the name McCorquodale. But, apparently on the morning of the planned wedding, the missing Lord reappeared initially in disguise. However, he made himself known to the great delight of “his lady and his followers“.
While the people in the story are real historical characters, the events described are part of the legend of the Black Knight of Rhodes, which was how Sir Colin Campbell became known. Other elements of the legend ar that Baron MacCorquodale wanted to seize wealth and the castle so fabricated reports of Sir Colin’s death having previously intercepted all his letter home. According to the legend, Sir Colin had a prophetic dream, returned to Scotland and slipped into the wedding disguised as a beggar. When his wife gave him some wine, he dropped his wedding ring into the glass and she recognised it and him.
Apparently, the core elements of this soldier myth are found in many different forms across Europe.
The Whisky Lady
Mum’s second story had been told her by the coach driver. According to him, a woman lived in the castle and used to make a living by rowing across the loch to sell her wares buying cases of whisky to bring back. Mum could not remember what wares the woman sold but one night she drowned on her return journey.
Apparently, this story was a piece of local 18th or 19th century gossip. It was based on an element of truth namely that, when the Campbells abandoned the castle, it was used as a place to store whisky by illicit whisky distillers and smugglers.
Neil Munro Monument
From Loch Awe, they travelled though Glen Aray where the coach driver pointed out a granite cairn erected in memory of Neil Munro. According to mum, this was erected in memory of Neil Munro but the Duke of Argyll refused to let it be erected in Inveraray so it was placed in this location where it was said the Duke of Argyll would see it every morning on rising.
Apparently, Neil Munro was the author of the Para Handy stories and this cairn was erected in 1935 five years after his death. The story told by the bus driver about Neil Munro and the Duke of Argyll is based on local gossip that Munro, the illegitimate son of a kitchen maid, had a father who was a member of the Duke of Argyll’s family.
Inveraray
From Glen Aray, they went to Inverary, which mum also described in some detail including some notes on Inverary Castle.
Mum noted that Inveraray was initially a burgh of barony but, early in the 17th century, became a royal burgh. Mum noted that the town was rebuilt in 1745 by the Duke of Argyll. However, not only was the town rebuilt, it was also relocated, as the “wretched hovels” were spoiling the Duke’s views! Mum’s comment about it being mostly “frontage” refers to the fact that it had been built to give the appearance of of a large, substantial Georgian city. Yet mum noted the population was “only “hardly more than 500“. In 2020, Inveraray’s population was 570. Mum wrote approvingly of Inveraray’s attractive appearance given the background of “green wooded hills” and in front “the clear waters of the loch“.
Mum noted that there was a large gateway beside the hotel “guarding” the entrance to an avenue more than one mile long. The hotel is the Inveraray Inn although it was previously the Argyll Hotel.
Inveraray Castle
Mum notes that Inveraray Castle was originally built in the 14th century but was rebuilt by the Duke of Argyll in 1745 using designs by Roger Morris and later Robert Mylne.
Loch Fyne
Mum’s final note for this day was that they drove round the top of Loch Fyne over the bridge. Mum noted that it was 42 miles long and was therefore the longest sea loch. She noted that the navy tested submarines there. Apparently, this started in the early cold war period and continues today.
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